Les Diablerets – Pillon and Ensex

There is no mistaking where you are when you wake up to the sound of cow bells, the Swiss Alps. Les Diablerets is nestled in a valley below the Les Diablerets Massif, a huge expanse of rock and ice over 3000 meters in height. Although not as well known as its neighbors of Gstaad and Chateau d’Oex, Les Diablerets is a quiet and quaint village that is perfect as a launching point for hiking in the region, and from what we are told also skiing in the winter months.

We stayed at the Hotel du Pillon B&B, a wonderful family run establishment that offers up to 20 rooms each uniquely designed and arranged by the hostess, a former interior designer from Geneva. Along with the wonderfully appointed and cozy room comes a great breakfast, either enjoyed inside or out on the front patio. Fortunate for us, we also were able to partake in dinner there the night prior. After a day of hiking the neighboring hillsides we sat down to a bubbling pot of cheese fondue and a salad of fresh greens picked from their own garden. We paired this with a nice white wine from the region, from Aigle in fact (the town we planned to stay in the following evening). At the neighboring table were the innkeepers sitting down for dinner with some friends. It was truly a welcome feeling.

After waking up and fueling our bodies with fresh baked bread, local cheese, jams, and fresh fruit, we packed up the car and headed out. We parked at Col de la Croix, a mountain pass to the valley to our south. We donned our packs, laced up our boots, and headed west passing through the village of Ensex on our way to Col de Bretaye. While Col de Bretaye is accessible by train, we preferred our method on foot. There you will find three alpine lakes: Lac de Bretaye, Lac Noir and Lac des Chavonnes. Finding your way back to your car can be done by any number of routes as hiking trails cover these hills like spaghetti tossed on a plate – they go everywhere. And when you are done for the day you can find some great dishes offered at Les Mazots, a chalet easily accessible by car at the top of the Meilleret ski runs or in the nearby town of Villars-Sur-Ollon.

Another great hike is the one we had taken the day prior. We parked at the base of the cable car at Col du Pillon that takes visitors up to Glacier 3000 on the summit of the Diablerets Massif. We had other plans however. We stepped out on foot and climbed to the small alpine lake Lac Retaud where there are some wonderful views – as if that is really hard to find in the Swiss Alps. From there we ventured further uphill, passing the tree line. We had planned to circumnavigate the summit of La Palette, but having gotten a late start we decided to turn back before hitting the summit.  However, this is still a great hike that we know we will go back to finish.